Thursday, February 17, 2011

Uganda Decides 2011

So it's election time here in Uganda and the level of excitement is incredible. For the first time in over three decades, there is talk of a Ugandan leader who is not Yoweri Museveni. People are excited and everywhere we go, large conveys of trucks blast recordings of various candidates campaigning. The situation in Egypt (rather the success of a people united and impassioned by the drive for a just and fair government) has not gone unnoticed; news media and advertisements funded by the Religious Leaders of Uganda play nonstop urging the nation and government to act only with peace. Museveni has cautioned the people that chaos will not be tolerated and promised that any persons who test this decree will be imprisoned immediately. Yesterday was the last day for official campaigning and people were out late into the evening. My homestay is near a large open area known as Pece (pronounced Peh-chay) stadium and I could hear the excitement well past midnight. Everyone is waiting. Although many argue that the election will be rigged and that Museveni will not allow a leader other than himself, most seem eager to travel to their polling stations and play a part in this years election. Because of the war here, it has been over 20 years since an election has been held in Uganda. It is amazing to be in this country; to be a part of something with so much potential for positive change. Many of the SIT group, myself included, are regretful to be away from all of the action. There is so much opportunity for learning about the political system within this country during this time. In addition, with so many people out in the streets it's easy to start conversations and hear first hand accounts of where the people of Gulu stand; in all the chaos and excitement many have become less reserved and very open. I am, however, grateful for the still and quiet of the seminary. Also, the number of guards in Gulu seems to be increasing regularly and I am no where near used to seeing so many weapons out and at the ready--even in the arms of fully uniformed men. I don't know if this will ever be something that I will observe with ease. And on a slightly more superficial note, this seminary has several amenities that made the transition away from all the action much less upsetting: electricity most of the time, somewhat reliable internet, running water, and (possibly inciting the most support for the decision to move) a toilet.

It is different to be away from my host family. I have had a wonderful time getting to know my mego and her sisters. Many people from the community stop by regularly and I feel so welcome by each of them. I went out to dinner with Frannie, my host-aunt, this past Monday and it was a fun evening. We rode boda-bodas into town which was amazing. Boda bodas comprise the most popular form of public transportation in Gulu; they are equivalent to the motorcycle in the U.S., only with seats that extend all the way over the back wheel to allow more people to ride. I have seen as many as 5 people plus a driver packed onto this vehicle. Although it may not be the safest local activity to participate in, the boda boda ride allowed Frannie and I to get from Pamela's house into town in less than ten minutes. And it was a blast.

Life in with the host family has taken some adjustment and the transition wasn't entirely free of discomfort. Pamela has two house maids that alternate in taking care of almost every aspect of work within the home. These tasks include cooking, cleaning, providing water for the shower, laundering clothes by hand, washing floors on hand and knee, and catering to any other request made my my mother and aunts. I have never experienced anything like this. From the first day, I expressed to Pamela that I would rather be treated as someone who wants to learn the life routine required by people living in this environment. She laughed, finding my statement irrelevant and paying little attention to it that evening. I reiterated my point several times, working to be as polite as possible. Things unraveled when I asked to for soap in order to do my own laundry. Fifteen minutes later, I had the soap and space to figure out this task. Lots and lots of space. Later, she asked me how the process went and seemed genuinely curious about my motivations for washing my clothes myself. She was open to what I said and I was careful to make it about my own awkward curiosity rather than a discomfort with the amount of work Irene and Beatrice do (with little pay, no acknowledgement, and absolutely no respect from those who live in the household) on a daily basis. Pamela laughed and played with my hair, a sign that she is pleased with me, stating only that she was blessed with a very peculiar American daughter this session. She said of the few Americans she had hosted before, she has never had one like me. I'm not sure how exactly she meant this, but she seemed happy and we ended the evening on very good terms. From that time, I participate in the daily chores with Irene or Beatrice; I help with cleaning and serve tea in mornings and evenings. I also help with washing and serving food. I feel much, much better about my place in the household, though my family often laughs at my willingness to spend my time this way. After seeing my mother off to work this morning, I set my things to leave for school and then spend time away at the seminary. Irene met me on the road, having followed me to give me a hug and thank me for my kindness. She speaks less English the much of my family and many of the locals I have met, but I have learned so much from her already. I hope to include her in my final project;; I believe her input on Acholi identity would add an entirely different perspective then that I could collect from Pamela and her sisters.

Speaking of my final project, the academic component of this semester is as equally amazing as the rest of my experience here. The lectures have been phenomenal and with each one comes a greater understanding of this nations history, present, and possible strategies for a positive future. At times, what we hear is overwhelming, and it is more than clear that the problems of Uganda aren't ones that have easy or simple solutions. Pamela says that the nation was at war for just over twenty years and it should be expected that the recovery period take just as long. I understand that view, but hope that Uganda recovers much sooner than 2033. My favorite lecture has been one on Conflict Analysis, Assessment, Mapping, and Prevention. I am hopeful that the lecturer will agree to be my adviser for the final project.

Missing everyone very much, and I'm excited at the prospect of having more consistent access to people at home while we're kept in the seminary.

Thanks for your time.

2 comments:

  1. This is really fascinating, and it is so neat that you are a part of such an incredible historical event. The laundry episode made me smile; it sounds like you are doing a wonderful job of navigating the cultural differences. Riding the boda boda sounds really wild, and I think you are so brave for embracing all of these new experiences! I hope your final project goes well, and please keep sharing when you can - I am really enjoying these glimpses into your amazing trip. Missing you lots and sending love and positive thoughts your way!

    Andrea

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  2. So interesting..and it sounds like you navigated a very complicated homestay situation well--that is hard stuff---status---and how to deal with it..i very much understand you on this though---keep writing! its wonderful!

    And what an amazing time to be in Uganda--

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